Writer serves up career truths in mini-memoir

Being dubbed ‘Australia’s Most Feared Restaurant Critic’ might make some writers uncomfortable.

For Dunsborough local and legendary food writer John Lethlean, it simply meant he was doing his job: telling readers the unvarnished truth.

Now, after 25 years of reviews that could make or break reputations – including some infamous takedowns that “led sacred cows to the abattoir” – in publications like The Age, The Australian, and Gourmet Traveller, Lethlean has collected his most memorable pieces in the mini-memoir Post Script.

While many writers claim a lifelong calling to their craft, John’s path to becoming Australia’s most influential food critic began with typical teenage uncertainty.

“I didn’t know what I wanted to do,” he said.

“It was suggested, ‘You like writing and reading…’ So, I just went with it and applied to The Sun and The Australian – both said no!”

But then he received a surprising ‘yes’. At 16, he landed a coveted cadetship at The Age.

“The Age was considered one of the best broadsheets in the world then,” he recalled. “Everything was done to emulate the great British and American papers. Integrity, independence – they weren’t just clichés, it was the truth.”

After five years at The Age, John set off to explore Europe, where his passion for food began to simmer.

Back in Melbourne, a series of media jobs followed until a friend’s pie business piqued his interest. Soon, he operated his own café and catering business.

A chance call from a magazine editor friend led to his first restaurant reviewing gig at the Melbourne Weekly. Two years of a solid (and entertaining) presence garnered attention.

The Age called, offering him the deputy editorship of their widely-read Epicure section, a ten-page weekly food and wine lift-out.

“They wanted to have one restaurant critic. It was THE gig. And it was mine!”

Ten years at The Age followed, then 14 more again at The Australian.

His distinctive writing style, blending honesty with humour, earned him both admirers and adversaries.

“The problem was that so many people in the media wanted to be friends with the restaurant industry. To me, it wasn’t about being mates – I was here to give the reader an insider’s truth.”

His partnership with wife, Kate, an elite culinary educator, added another layer of expertise to his work.

“Kate brought a valuable perspective – she knew more about cooking than most chefs. She could quite specifically say that this sauce was made with burnt butter, or that it had been over-reduced. We became a great team, getting to the nitty gritty of our experiences.”

The commitment to authenticity meant dining incognito. Booking under the name ‘Manuel,’ he would send his wife or dining companions ahead while he slipped in unnoticed.

“Sometimes, halfway through a meal, you’d get this palpable ‘oh no!’ from the kitchen when they finally realised who was at the table.

“It’s incredible how often I dined in restaurants without them having the faintest idea I was there, and that was a really good thing – I’d get the real experience, not an enhanced performance.”

Of course, scorching reviews have an effect.

“You can’t criticise a restaurant without, by association, criticising people. There were a lot of places that you’ll see in the book that are absolute bridge burners.

“Which was a shame, as I wanted to see people improve. Nobody improves unless they’re getting honest, constructive feedback. But I couldn’t revisit!”

Melbourne’s Tender Trap remains one of his favourite reviews, capturing the absurdity of fashionable molecular gastronomy gone wrong: ‘With a completely straight face, our mature gentleman waiter announces that tonight, an entree of ‘Canadian sea scallops with shiraz glaze, strawberry jelly and peanut butter parfait’ is available… It rapidly transpires he is not joking.’

“When truth is stranger than fiction, it just pours out of your fingers onto the screen.”

Candid criticism often created interesting moments, like finding himself seated beside a famous restaurant owner he’d reviewed somewhat unfavourably on a flight back from Adelaide.

“It was a very long and awkward trip home!”

As with all great stories, unexpected plot twists exist in their arcs; John’s illustrious career ended abruptly when words he wrote within a review led to public outcry, opening the floodgates for those he had critiqued in the past.

“People tend to take things personally. When I got cancelled, there was a lot of bloodletting from people in the industry whom I had offended. And yes, there had been many of them – it was a difficult time.”

Writing his mini-memoir provided a path to healing.

“Writing my book was certainly cathartic. After my writing career ended, I became increasingly disillusioned with the state of the publishing industry, making it easier for me to move on. I had a dream run for the past 25 years.”

While the sting was real, John could retire his critic’s pen and hang up his hat with his head held high, knowing he had never compromised his principles or betrayed the trust of his readers.

“As a writer, you’ve got to visualise your audience and say, I’m writing for real people, and I have a responsibility to get this right. I’ve always been about the reader first. Hence, my not-so-favourable reviews, but at least I was honest with the reader. My No.1.”

Time and reflection softened the edges of departure.

“Rather than focus on down times, it led me to reflect on the great things I’d achieved and the incredible experiences,” he shared.

Working with Kate to hunt down old reviews for the book brought joy and perspective.

“Some pieces have disappeared into the ether, but it was great fun to dig out old pieces, laugh, and reminisce on doing the review.”

Now residing in the South West, John looks forward rather than back. At 65, he is content to leave the reviewing to others, though writing still calls.

“I’d love to write a book about living abroad, a collection of pieces about experiencing life in a foreign country.”

His ideal dining experience now? Authentic moments that capture a place’s heart and soul.

“We recently went to Italy and ate in non-touristy restaurants in tiny towns. I can’t even remember the food, but the experience took me to the heart of that culture. That’s what I want now – getting as close as I can to real experiences. I don’t need fancy things, just genuine moments.”

So, who would John invite to this idyllic dinner? “Ricky Gervais – so clever, so funny. And if he were still alive, Barry Humphries, whose use of language is utterly brilliant and whose sense of humour is off the charts!”

John’s story, along with his collection of wild, witty and revealing reviews can be found in his eBook, Post Script. Available on Amazon.